7 weeks between surf’s.


It’s been about 5 years since that last happened and that involved a combination of tennis elbow, golfers elbow and something else they couldn’t diagnose. This meant I couldn’t paddle, which does tend to limit your surfing.

After not surfing for 6 months and doing what the doctors told me I cracked it and went for a paddle, lasted about 5min and was done. A month later I could stay in 15min, then longer and longer. Hell, for the first few months it took me longer to get in and out of my wetsuit than the time I spent in the water catching waves.

This time I’m lucky, it’s only been 7 weeks. Lucky may be too strong a word as I can’t actually stand up, so much to my humiliation I’ve borrowed a shark biscuit and shamed myself by going out on that.

I feel like a small child. I should be wearing water wings and goggle’s, maybe paint a picture of the characters from frozen on it.

On the plus side people leave me alone out there. Pretty sure it’s because they think I’ve had a severe head trauma and if  they get too close they may catch it. Or maybe they think I have rabies and might bite them? Or maybe they think the same as I do when I surf, that at least if a sharks around he will go for the body boarder first, so I’m kinda like a good luck charm for them. I’m good with any of these really. Except for the shark bait one. That is average.

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